Mumbai Street Life – The Eve of Eid @ Mohammed Ali Road

Indeed, We sent the Qur’an down during the Night of Decree.

And what can make you know what is the Night of Decree?

The Night of Decree is better than a thousand months.

The angels and the Spirit descend therein by permission of their Lord for every matter.

Peace it is until the emergence of dawn.

                                                                 ———-Surat Al-Qadr

If you are in Mumbai on the last few nights of Ramadan, you wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. This is the place where thousands of people flock-in to spend the night. Looking around, you will feel humbled by the crowd. Standing there, you will feel lost in the light, sound and smell of the street.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR1725.Adjacent to the Minara Mosque, the street is named after a former president of Indian National Congress –  Mohammad Ali Jouhar, an activist, scholar, journalist and poet. The Mosque is one of the oldest in the city, dating back to 18th century. At night, it looks beautiful with its many domes decorated with green light. On the tallest dome, it’s written ‘Allah’ in Arabic.

Mohammed Ali Road is famous for delicious food. The restaurants and sweet shops here have a rich heritage which span across generations. And they live up to it.You can find some of the popular  establishments on this map. Better stick to this list.

The sight may not be easy on the eyes. At the front of the restaurants, marinated meat is piled up, making way to the frying pan piece by piece. At some corners, you will also find internal organs of unfortunate animals, kept in iced water. ‘Kheeri Kaleji’, ‘Sheekh Kabab’ and ‘Bheja Fry’ are some dishes worth a try.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR1718.
Suleman Usman Mithaiwala is a famous sweet shop with a proud history

The many bazaars that are around bustle with activity. Shops display colorful cloths, glittering bangles, redolent perfumes, and all kinds of stuff. Salesmen shout at the top of their voice – some, using a microphone – to attract the attention of the crowd. At times, they call out specific names – like ‘Farooq’ for example – hoping that some one with that name among the crowd will turn up. Though restaurants begin to close down from 2 AM, activity at the bazaars extend well past dawn.DCIM100GOPROGOPR1740. Not far away from the CST railway station, the street serves as the nerve center of night life in Mumbai during Ramadan. Without the boundaries separating rich and poor, it shows us a true reflection of Mumbai way of co-existence.  As The Qur’an rightly says, “Peace is until the emergence of dawn”. Tip: Do not take a vehicle anywhere near during Ramadan night!

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